Tuesday, December 21, 2010

The Second


Here is a rundown of things we've done/seen/eaten so far.

The first few days in CPH were a shock to the system. Snow lined the footpaths but didn't fall and the wind blew an almighty freeze over everything. My face has never been so cold. On our first night we were asleep by 7pm. Not surprising, considering we got a total of about 4 hours sleep on the plane(s). Remember it is also dark by 3.30pm. Our sleeping patterns have finally returned to normal, meaning we can stay up after midnight and sleep in until 11am.

Ida's apartment is very white and clean and cosy. She, like most Danish people from what I can gather, burns candles from morning till night. Whilst pretty this is a hazard for me and I've nearly set my hair on fire at least 3 times. There is very little in the way of overhead lighting here, with strategically placed lamps and candles or very low slung fixtures creating mood lighting that is generous to everyone. I'm not complaining about that at all! Timon and I sleep on a double mattress in the loungeroom and shower in Ida's bedroom. Looks crazy I know, but when you think about it really, it's very convenient.


Ida took us on a walking tour of the city and we visited Princess Mary's palace which is next door to the Queen's and the spares reserved for visiting dignitaries. We walked along the harbour and saw the new shiny opera house, the grand Marble Church and New Harbour which is the scene of nearly every Denmark-ian postcard. Please check out our Facebook albums for photos of everything. My favourite thing so far, apart from the eating of course, was The Little Mermaid. She sits on a rock in the water just off the shore, looking very demure and pretty. Lucky for us she has just returned from a visit to China!


We went to Ida's uncles house for his birthday dinner and the food was spectacular. I fell in love with this chicken with tuna sauce, which sounds gross but was gorgeous. Timon had plenty of roast pork and very dark christmas beer. Everyone made a big effort to speak English and although we were exhausted by 9pm it was a fun night. We have only come across one person who didn't speak English in the shops and that was at the pharmacy. Life has been pretty easy in that regard. We DO have to learn a traditional Danish Christmas song so we can dance around the tree on the 24th. I'm definitely nervous about that but hopefully a few glasses of wine will smooth it over.

We have spent a lot of time in the shops of CPH. Especially H&M and Urban Outfitters. Timon is on the lookout for sturdier winter snow boots and me for a warmer winter coat. We've had little luck so far, and as everything is brutally expensive here I think we will tough it out until Berlin. I did buy a warmer scarf and we both got thicker gloves so that our adventures are not hindered by the icy air. Other than walking we have taken a canal tour which was very pretty in the sun, been driven around by Ida (on the wrong side of the road!) and ridden many buses. One of our most magical evenings was at Tivoli Gardens, the second oldest amusement park in the world (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tivoli_Gardens). We drank coffee and ate Danish donuts in a quaint restaurant, saw ice sculptures and Santa and ate bagels and took a Christmas Express train ride. The lights were spectacular and Christmas spirit abundant.

Our visit to Christiania was definitely an eye opener. Known as a Free Town, Christiania is an area of CPH settled by hippies in 1971. Considered a commune of sorts, the area is walled off from the rest of the city and is governed by its own laws. People build their own wacky houses and live by their own rules. It sounds lovely right? Well kind of. But when we walked down Pusher Street (uh huh), it was scary and a little cold-war russia as dodgy men in dark hoodies sold weed off barrels next to open fire pits with mangy dogs hanging around their feet. Photos aren't allowed in Pusher Street so you can't tell if I'm exaggerating, but it was definitely an uneasy feeling. I can imagine in summer it's a peaceful, loved up, sunny high-town, but the grey of winter just made it look mean. Away from that main street it was a winter wonderland, with an iced over lake and deep snow making it quite magical.


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